Any suggestions of what to use to bond back together a delaminating spoon?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Delaminating spoons
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KiwiCanuck
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Re: Delaminating spoons
Epoxy. Which type I would use depends a little on how big the delamination is.
There are the syringe-tube types of epoxy, 2:1 and 1:1 mix epoxies (e.g., Cold Cure, Sun Cure), 5:1 (e.g., West System - who have "fast" and "slow" hardeners)
In any case, a "slow cure" epoxy rather than "5-minute". The folks who make Cold Cure epoxy advised me that 5-minute epoxies tend to absorb moisture and deteriorate relatively quickly. That has also been my experience.
If you use the tube/syringe type epoxy, try do it on a fairly warm day so it flows better. If you use the pourable liquid type epoxy, measure carefully, stir thoroughly.
Mask off the parts you don't want glued. I prefer plastic tape for masking as it doesn't absorb the glue - things like regular painter's masking tape tend to absorb epoxy and become very hard to clean up.
I use plastic (shrink wrap or a plastic shopping bag, for example) to cover anything I clamp with. It peels off the epoxy after the glue sets. If you use bits of wood for clamping pressure, you can wrap it in packaging tape to prevent the wood from sticking to the repair...
If you're not familiar with epoxies, I'd recommend you use nitrile gloves, pay attention to "pot life", and do all your preparation (drying, sanding, cleaning, fitting, getting the clamping stuff ready, etc) before opening the glue package. Read the literature that comes with the epoxy. Too much exposure to epoxy can lead to you becoming sensitive to it, and you don't want the hardeners to absorb into your skin.
Hope this helps.
There are the syringe-tube types of epoxy, 2:1 and 1:1 mix epoxies (e.g., Cold Cure, Sun Cure), 5:1 (e.g., West System - who have "fast" and "slow" hardeners)
In any case, a "slow cure" epoxy rather than "5-minute". The folks who make Cold Cure epoxy advised me that 5-minute epoxies tend to absorb moisture and deteriorate relatively quickly. That has also been my experience.
If you use the tube/syringe type epoxy, try do it on a fairly warm day so it flows better. If you use the pourable liquid type epoxy, measure carefully, stir thoroughly.
Mask off the parts you don't want glued. I prefer plastic tape for masking as it doesn't absorb the glue - things like regular painter's masking tape tend to absorb epoxy and become very hard to clean up.
I use plastic (shrink wrap or a plastic shopping bag, for example) to cover anything I clamp with. It peels off the epoxy after the glue sets. If you use bits of wood for clamping pressure, you can wrap it in packaging tape to prevent the wood from sticking to the repair...
If you're not familiar with epoxies, I'd recommend you use nitrile gloves, pay attention to "pot life", and do all your preparation (drying, sanding, cleaning, fitting, getting the clamping stuff ready, etc) before opening the glue package. Read the literature that comes with the epoxy. Too much exposure to epoxy can lead to you becoming sensitive to it, and you don't want the hardeners to absorb into your skin.
Hope this helps.